"Be a limited edition"
My name is Vincent Vangoidsenhoven. I'm 19 years old and I live in Belgium. I work at Webstore.be (a subsidiary of VanRoey Automation) as Service Engineer and I study IT Factory at Thomas More in Geel. I am very interested in IT and electronics and I am also very fascinated by photography, especially night photography, timelapse and Urbex. I am a long-distance runner in my leisure time and I do a lot of experiments with electronics and hardware.
Check out my Facebook, YouTube, Instructables, Runtastic and 500px accounts.
"I can never stand still. I must explore and experiment"
~ Walt Disney ~
The scripts and code of this project are confidential.
The old system was based on the idea and template from "TheFreeElectron" a user on Instructables. The system is intended to run on a Raspberry Pi where the webpage is hosted on and the GPIO pins control the relay boards. His template is very well build and works excellent. But the security and the appearance of the webpage could use some improvement. For the security part I created a PHP login page which will keep unwanted users away. The security is absolutely not bulletproof but therefore it is only meant to be used on the internal network. I improved the appearence by changing the button images to more functional slide switch images. The original webpage had no css whatsoever. Since I learned some basic CSS at school I've tried to improve the appearance with a proper CSS file.
UPDATE: The physical section of my MissionControl system is completely upgraded. Let me tell you first a bit about the previous setup. The original system existed of some ledstrip’s and the MusicFX system, these were controlled by simple rocker switches. The general wiring and “gateway” to all the components and ledstrip’s was built in a big empty computer chassis with a door style sidepanel. I started off with a DIY breakout connector for the GPIO header of the Raspberry Pi. I made this from an old IDE cable which end I trimmed of and split and soldered each wire of it. This breakout connector was connected to a half-size breadboard sticked to the inside of the computer chassis. The system expanded bit by bit and more functions were added such as a switch to enable the VU-meter, but this features didn’t lasted very long because they weren’t really functional. Then I discovered an Instructables project that instructs how to make a home automation system with a Raspberry Pi. This system back in the days was limited to 8 relays. Since then the system became digital and IoT enabled. The Raspberry Pi was added “on top” of the existing wiring and the computer chassis quickly became a messy spiderweb of wires. The system kept expanding till I designed MissionControl. This system allowed me to add even more relayboards to the system. I also began to add temperature sensors and inputs to the system. At this point the computer chassis was filled completely with wires and the Raspberry Pi was buried under all the components and wires. It did happen while I was developing MissionControl that I needed to fully reinstall the Raspi. This was a complete nightmare, I had to dig the Raspberry Pi out of the chassis and disconnect the breakout connector and hope no wires got detached from the breadboard. How I could let this eventually end up in such a ginormous mess, I still don’t know. But it was time for a change. The software was already modular and easy to modify. The hardware needed this too. First, I built a sketch of all the components and wiring in Fritzing, I opted for 2 breadboards which would give me much more space than needed but the wiring must be easy to modify. The plan was to built this system on a wooden board that should contain all the digital components, the Raspberry Pi, the breadboards, the pull-up circuits for the inputs and the relay boards. The wood board would be placed on top of the pc chassis. I extended the cables in the pc chassis and are routed via the back of the chassis to its corresponding relay. The system is fully build by now and is ready for future upgrades and expansions.
I got this Philips Berry as a present. This mood light has a 3watt RGB LED and has 2 buttons brightness and color and one secret reset button. This is a very nice light ornament but it isn’t very practical to control via the 2 buttons. I had a NodeMCU laying around and I had the idea to implement this into the Philips Berry. I first had to find a way to open up the lamp without damaging it, this wasn’t as easy as you may think. The lamp has no visible or accessible screws on the exterior and the plexiglass diffuser is clipped into the chassis. I eventually got it open by wrapping it in a sweatshirt and by gently putting my own weight on it by leaning on it with my knee. The original plan was to control it via relays to control the buttons but this turned out to be unnecessary. I connected the ESP8266 directly to the signal wires of the buttons and to the ground of the control board of the lamp. After writing some code and a bootstrap page for it, it worked. It has a very simple bootstrap page hosted on the ESP8266 itself and it works very responsive. This system is also implemented in the MissionControl system for easy use.
MusicFX is a DIY music visualisation project made by myself. The heart of the system is a Velleman MK114 single channel light organ. This module uses 12v and a single high-level speaker output, it filters out the low frequencies and converts them to a 12v output where the cathode is the controlled polarity. This controller is meant to be used with high power 12v halogen light bulbs. But usually RGB LED-strips are common anode. They use one anode and the 3 rgb channels are cathodes. These are perfect for this project because I only want to use the red channel. I connected the controller to my already existing LED-strip setup and it worked perfectly. Below you can see a demo of MusicFX in combination with the ECS system.
UPDATE: All RGB led-strips are now capable of emitting all colors, previously some led strips (rear, amplifiers, ...) were only connected with the anode and the red cathode. The desired color can now be select via MissionControl.
The meaning of this project is to create an alarm clock which looks good and is functional too. On my Instructables page there is an old version of this project. The old version uses an old modified HP Compaq Mini 311c with an Intel atom n270 cpu. The old project was based on a Google Chrome extension which displays the time, a daily quote and a background that changes everyday. With the new version I changed out the 4:3 monitor for a 16:9 15" LCD panel. The new version doesn't use Chrome anymore but a VB.net application made by myself instead. Also the laptop used for this project is updated to a HP mini netbook with a AMD E350 cpu which is slightly more powerful than the atom. The computer automatically wakes up and goes back to sleep by scripts on set times.
The battery of my phone was faulty. And I decided to replace the battery. I found a company in Belgium they claim that they sell OEM replacement batteries. I ordered a battery and I thought why don't I try to make the backglass transparent. I had the idea to sand the coating off with steel wool. I first tried it on an already damaged backglass, and success it takes some time but the coating comes off and the glass doesn't get scratched at all. I sanded the new backglass and looks completely transparent and has no scratches at all. I replaced the battery, applied a new gasket on the backglass and placed the glass on the phone. It looks amazing. I also ordered a transparent back case the "Ringke Fusion Xperia Z3". The end result = a new OEM battery, a super geeky looking phone and a cost which is a fraction of the cost of a new phone.
The goal of this project is to reuse an old LCD monitor and converting it to a informative window gadget. The concept is based on how LCD panels work. A LCD panel uses different layers to display an image. The first layer is the background lighting layer, on top of that there are a few filters to diffuse the light over the whole LCD panel and then the latest layer is the LCD panel itself. This is what you need for this project. The LCD panel is semi-transparent, this means that light comes through the panel but it can be controlled by the pixels in the panel. If you mount the LCD panel to a window like I did the light from outside is used as backlight lighting. It is not as bright as it originally was but with high contrast it's still very readable. The video signal for the LCD panel is provided by a modded thin client. The thin client runs Windows XP and is programmed with scripts to automatically startup a remote desktop connection with my home server. On this server is user account especially made for this project where a VB.net made by myself runs on. The window display displays a lot of useful information like the weather, a rain radar, the time, a greeting which changes by the time of the day, a network device activity tester (it pings to all network devices every 10 seconds), an internet connection indicator and few performance counters which represent the server status.
I am very fascinated by photography it is also my hobby. I bought my first DSLR in 2014 it was a Nikon D3100 with a Nikon Nikkor 18-55mm f3.5-5.6 AF-S DX VR kit lens. I was very interested in timelapse video and nightphotography. This "cheap" camera was ideal for experimenting and learning the basics of photography. In 2016 I sold my D3100 and I bought a more advanced Nikon D5200 body with a Tamron 18-200MM F/3.5-6.3 DI II lens. The body is very good but the lens was way too cheap. Pictures were not sharp and there was a lot of chromatic aberration. Early 2017 I bought a lens specifically for my needs (Nightphotography, landscapes and pictures with bokeh effect) I chose the Sigma 17-50mm f/2.8 EX DC OS HSM it is very wide lens with a minimum aperture of 2.8 over the whole zoom range. So far this is the best lens I ever bought.
Check out my work on 500px